Repair and Disassembly
From G-Shock Wiki | casio watch resources
Removing the Bezel and Band
Use the proper tools:
- Phillips screwdriver - Most sets of small precision screwdrivers will include one that will work on Casio G-Shock screws. This one is from a $6 Husky screwdriver set available at Home Depot stores - Link
- Spring bar removal tool - You can use a slotted flat-head screwdriver or a specialty tool found easily on eBay - eBay Search
Be very careful
- It's very easy to scratch the watch case, crack the resin parts, or bend a spring bar if you're not careful.
- You should consider practicing on cheap or beat up watches first before doing any work on an expensive model.
- Keep a firm grasp on the watch and any tools used during process.
Tip for Removing Screws
A little tip I learned (the hard way of course). Use a good screwdriver and use an optical frame heater (hot air type)on a low setting to gently warm up the screws, before attempting to remove the screws. This method makes life easier. You can also use a household hairdryer as well, as long as you use a lower setting so not to overheat the watch. -OldHippie1968
Removing the band
- Use the spring bar removal tool to compress the spring bar toward the center of the band (there should be a small notch for the tool to grip).
- Slowly swing the band outwards away from the watch case (be careful that the end of the spring bar or the tool don't scratch the metal case)
Removing the bezel
- Most G-Shocks have four small Phillips screws that need to be removed before pulling off the bezel (hex screws on the top of Frogman models are purely cosmetic).
- Carefully unscrew the screws and set them aside (be careful that the soft metal is not damaged by the tool).
- Use your thumbs to pull the bezel out and over the pair of buttons on one side(if the buttons vary in length start with side that has the shortest ones).
- Once one side is clear the other side should easily slide out and away.
- The thin bit of resin under each button is the weakest part, so try to avoid putting stress on it (older brittle parts need extra care).
Re-Installing the band
Putting the bands back on can be the hardest part of the entire disassembly and reassembly process, but it gets much easier with practice.
Getting both ends of the spring bars back in the two holes can be tricky, especially if the springs are stiff. I will compress them a few times between my fingers to loosen them up if necessary.
- Put one end into the corresponding hole at an angle (try to gett he tip to at least catch it a bit).
- Hold the band against the module with one hand (I'm right-handed and do this with my left hand).
- With the other hand you compress the spring bar with a tool and slide it in towards the second hole (use a straight metal rod end of a spring bar tool to guide the second end in).
The last step takes practice to get good at it. You have to guide it in carefully, so that the end of the 2nd spring bar finds its hole. If both ends don't go snuggly into the holes it will pop right out.
It can be really easy to scratch the case with the spring bar or a tool if you're not very careful during the procedure. I would practice on a beater watch first. Also, my technique varies by the model. Some are easier than others.
Re-Installing the bezel
Putting the bezel back on is easy enough if it's not in bad shape. Sometimes soaking in some warm water will help loosen it up.
- It's usually easier to start with the side that has the longest buttons (if they vary in length at all)
- Ease the two buttons on one side into their corresponding bezel holes.
- Gently stretch the bezel across the module until you are able to slip it down over the other side's buttons.
- Check to make sure it's well centered and securely fitted.
- Replace any of the bezel screws removed during disassembly (be careful not to tighten them too much - they can strip easily).
Removing the Buckle
Swapping the buckle is easy, as it's just a springbar holding the buckle on, and the 'lugs' of the buckle should be drilled thru, so you can just push a pin/tool in to compress the springbar and pop it out, thus removing the buckle. -Topher1556
Removing the Buttons
Swapping the buttons should be no problem, but be careful. There are very small circle clips (I call them 'Jesus' clips, because if you don't hold them tight when removing them, they fly off...and usually you'll say something like "Jesus...", as they are GONE ). The small clips snap onto the button shaft and hold the buttons in. To get to this point, you have to remove the module. -Topher1556
Button parts are named 2H, 8H, 4H and 10H. 2H means the 2 o'clock position, 4H the 4 o'clock position, etc... -torch
The sequence of parts on the button shaft (from the outside in):
- Watch case
- 2 O-rings
When replacing a button you need to switch out the complete button assembly. It is necessary to remove the module to reach the circlip securing the button stem. You will not be able to reattach the plastic part of the button to your existing button stem, the contact surface is too small. -lowtech
Removing the G or Light Button
If you want to remove the light button, you need to open the watch and remove the module. Don't lose the spring. Now you will see the 5 buttons. They are attached with "circlips" (that's what I think they are called). If you carefully remove it from the button-stick, you can take it out on the other side. I personally can't really recommend doing this, because it's very (very very very...) hard to get these tiny circlips back on the button-stick! -Sjors
Removing the Module
Remove the module, use some good needle-nose pliers to remove the circle clips (maybe even locking needle-nose pliers to make sure you've securely got the clips), and the buttons should slide out of the case.
If you're working on an atomic/solar module, you need to be very careful with the antenna for the atomic receiver, as it's quite thin, and the cable is very short. Just don't be rough with it, and you should be alright. -Topher1556
Lubricate the gasket whenever opening the case back
- Run some silicon grease (aka dielectric grease - auto supply shop) along the rubber gasket before sealing the watch back up. This will prolong the life of the gasket and keep it nice and water-proof.
Removing Scratches from the band and bezel
Removing marks from a G-9000 Mudman bezel
Rubbing out marks on the softer resin band with a pair of old jeans works, but that doesn't do much for marks on the bezel.
The best method is to use 1500 grit emery cloth (sandpaper for metals) or higher. The higher the number the finer the emery cloth.
Take a small piece and very lightly scuff the gloss area (by hand, no dremel tools) on the impact site to tone down the gloss. Then rub your thumb over the area to slightly burnish the area. Finally use a soft Staedtler white eraser (drafting eraser - available everywhere), and gently tap the area for a final burnish.
The glossy impact areas will now be matte and not as noticeable as before. It won't return to a "like new" state, but it will be far less noticeable than the high gloss impact marks.
- by Ghobbit
Changing a G-Shock Battery
- Sjors' G-Shock Battery Change Tutorial - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogCz2vjUKVg
- How to convert a plain DW-5600 LCD to a negative display - Full disassembly instructions included in this excellent photo filled tutorial.
Warnings of Caution
- What Not To Do!!! - Complete guide on what you should not do when taking apart a DW-5600E G-Shock.
Projects Which Require Disassembly
- Improve the Accuracy of your G-Shock - Open up and adjust the time-keeping ability of your G-Shock
DW-5600 Caseback Variations
- Casiophile's great article with lots of photos on all the different types of screwbacks found on vintage G-Shocks - http://www.gmtplusnine.com/2008/01/22/dw-5600-caseback-variations/
Notes on the longevity of resin parts
G-Shock watches are known for being tough, but many users might feel irritated that such a sturdy watch comes with such a weak band (not the metal version, but the PVC plastic one), that often cracks and breaks after several months of everyday wear. MaraTac makes a watchband called the Zulu, which made of is ballistic nylon and is suitable for secure extended wear under rough conditions (even diving). To install the MaraTac Zulu watchband, you must first obtain an adapter for the G-Shock, and the appropriate size band (22 to 24mm width only). The procedure for attaching the adapter is the same as for re-installing the regular PVC band. With the new watchband, you should get much more use out of your favorite G-Shock. See Bands and Strap Adapters for more information.